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Waiting for Hedi Slimane

by Stéphane Gaboué
Waiting for Hedi Slimane
The chairs in the Dior Homme studio, which were designed by Hedi Slimane

Fashion without Slimane
The departure of Hedi Slimane was a real problem, precisely because he was a problem-solving designer. As Charbal’s fable reveals, he designed clothes that held their promise: to give men, especially slim men, a unique allure. Now these guys had to consider alternatives.

“At the beginning, I thought I might go to a bespoke tailor, but I found nice clothes at Lanvin (designed by Lucas Ossendrijver, a former Slimane assistant). I also like Raf Simons, Rick Owens and Thom Browne.“ Most Slimane fans cited roughly the same modernist designers among their favorites, along with Christopher Baily at Burberry. As for Charbal, he says he still hasn’t found a designer to replace Slimane.

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“People sure miss Hedi, he was so important”, said Sarah Lerfel the buyer for the hip Parisian boutique Colette. “But we have enough alternatives not to feel the economic weight of his absence”. In her store, she noticed that many former Dior customers now found solace with Simons, Browne, and also the new Dior Homme outfits by Kris Van Assche. And she didn’t see any particular surge for the fall 2007 Dior homme collection, which was Slimane’s last. “You know, only a specific clientele - mostly addicts or fashion professionals - really cares about the idea of a last collection. Most people just see the Dior label, which is still alive”.

Slimane’s absence can also be felt during Paris men’s fashion week, which almost always closed with his must-attend, spectacular shows. The city still has exceptional designers like Raf Simons, Bernhard Willhelm or John Galliano, but one feels a certain void. “There were good shows last January, said John Tan, a fashion stylist who notably works for V, but the excitement that should have been there, wasn’t there.” The French fashion ruling body declined to be interviewed for this story, yet a spokesman stated that attendance at the men’s shows has been constantly evolving for years.